Getting my 1942 HD WLA back running?

Question

I have a 1942 HD WLA in unrestored original condition that use to be my dads bike. It ran daily but has been sitting in storage since 2008 and i've finally got some time and a little funds to take a stab at getting it back running. My question is...
Considering it has been sitting, how would you approach getting it back running?
People with experience would have the knowledge on say, 'the 10 things' i'd need to do before i ever go and start kicking it over to try and crank it.
I want to know these 10 things!
I have motorcycle experience and im good with tools.
help lead the way!

Answer 1

The steps you've been told are all good.I would for sure put a bit of Marvel Mystery oil(about a tablespoon) in each cylinder and let it sit overnight before i tried turning it over.Then GENTLY try turning the engine over(i would leave the plugs out and try moving the kicker by hand).If it doesn't seem to be free add some more oil and let it sit overnight again.Be patient!If the rings are froze to the cylinder walls and you force it you run the risk of breaking a ring.That should have a Linkert carb on it if it's stock.Unscrew the filter housing at the bottom and clean the screen inside.I would check the float also.Linkerts had a cork float and they are prone to getting soaked with fuel if the laquer finish is worn off them.And to save yourself grief try to following starting drill.Turn the gas and the choke fully on and kick it through 3 times.Then turn the choke off (if it's very cold out leave the choke on one click from fully open)and bring the engine up on a compression stroke.Retard the distributor and then turn the ignition on and try to start it.Linkerts are great carbs for their age IF you know the starting drill.Otherwise you can kick them til your ready to puke and they will just chuff out the carb once in a while.My 56 Panhead is that way for sure.Also keep in mind if that motor is all stock the heads are not set up to run unleaded gas.Your either going to have to run a lead substitute or convert the heads for unleaded gas.

Answer 2

Provided it was running when it was parked, there's not too much that really needs to be done, change the oil and fuel, drain the carb float bowl, and a few drops of oil down the cylinders never hurts, check the points to make sure there serviceable and in good condition, inspect all the cables and lubricate if necessary, same goes for the chain. check tire pressure, put it in gear and disengage the clutch while rocking it back and forth to make sure the clutch plates haven't stuck together, that could be exciting when you get it started and put it in gear and it takes off on you. don't forget to check the air cleaner. and hopefully your carb isn't gummed up from sitting with fuel left in it, in which case you'll be cleaning a carb, chances are its not going to start within the first few kicks anyway so that should be enough to get oil to your valve train, prime it and cross your fingers.

Answer 3

I dont know about the ten things thing, but put new oil in take out the plugs, a few drops in the jugs light weight oil, slowley kick it over to make sure the feed gears pick it up and sends it through the engines oil ports if all is ok kick it a lot more to send the oil to the right spots. check push rods for tightness, timing marks lines up, points look good and adjust if need be.look at the dist. cap and rotor if all look good then on to the wires, make sure they are tight and right. charge batt. or buy a new one. coil has spark to the plugs,( new plugs sometimes dont work I buy 4 at a time ) if all so far is good its gas time, put a little in the tank kick it over a few more times check plugs for gas, no leaks, no stuck float. choke on kick it 4 times choke off open throttle all the way kick it 4 times put the choke on and ign. off bring it almost t.d.c. on firing stroke #1 cly. ign on and kick it over should pop or fire up if not open throttle all the open to clear it repeat the 4 and 4 thing it will fire. you need to prim these old dogs. hope this works I think it will

Answer 4

1942 WLA? check lower front legs for rocker bushing worn- they need grease on regular schedule. Replacements available some custom shops. Check neck area of forks- you might have a hydraulic Monroe shock, might have friction dampner. Tranmission adjustments for primary mean drive chain and brake rod need readjusting- the transmission lever arm from tank shift needs slight lengthening after also. Check underneath for worn bolts, worn tranny casing holes- Helicoils can be used if needed, Check the oil lines from top side tank as well as the gas lines.drain and replace with fresh. Depending on possible service arm-leand lease, you might have a hand clutch lever as well as foot clutch. No hand lever means probably not commonwealth order- check friction disc at foot clutch, should hold clutch disengaged until rocked forward. Does it have right hand or left hand gear shift? both were made. WLA indicates a WL civilian engine sent to army service -the ending A, so might have aluminum heads instead of iron heads- meaning a quarter point higher compression, like 5.5 instead of 5.2 to 1. Adjust rear exhaust valve on loose side of specs- .012 insted of .010 I think? maybe .014-.016? check base of cylinder bolts/nuts- torque down as somtimes can work a bit loose. Battery may be easy of hard to find depending on Hog dealers- but a BMW 6 volt /2 battery is about same square dimensions, just a 1 inch shorter height. as for unleaded gas use? at that time leaded was somtimes scarce so pooler gas was unleaded, the valve seats in block were good cast iron and oil vapor for .025-.040 piston clearance acted as partial lube- a few had Stellite seats like Ford tractor but not common- were MP order for officer staff car escorts duty. WLA was 24 hp instead of 22.5 of WA- you have the high performance model, but don't expect much more than 50 mph happy engine. Push it and might get to 65 as originaly speced- but check front engine sprocket- i'm thinking a 18 tooth was WA and 19 was WL/WLA ? could vary. For later engine and tranny parts- check the G parts books- these were the Trikes/Servicars made until 1974 or so. Valve guides were same as ULs and G, Check spokes on wheels- sometimes a few work loose. Rear frame at back of tranny sometime a weak point- absorbs reat tire shock from road bumps so sometimes cracks like other hardtails.

Answer 5

And if it's complete and unrestored, don't restore it. The real collectors (the ones with real money) want it as original as possible, including the paint, etc.



If it's already been restored in the past, might as well do it again.