Question:
do I need to replace the caliper if rear brake is not working on my cruiser?
2011-01-23 10:23:08 UTC
I added brake fluid and bled the line but still get nothing when i hit the foot brake.
Seven answers:
2011-01-23 10:44:59 UTC
The "MY CRUISER" has several components in the rear braking system. Most commonly a master cylinder, fluid lines and a caliper. This is a sealed system. Failure of the rubber seals on the master, air contamination in a line or corrosion of the caliper piston or failure of one of its seals can all cause a loss of pressure in the system. Inspect the "MY CRUISER" for Signs of fluid leakage. If none are found then it is possible that the master cylinder has failed. The master may be rebuild-able but you will first have to inspect the bore for pitting. Pitting occurs due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid [attracts moisture] and an entire new unit will be needed if it is damaged enough. You can get the parts you need from a "MY CRUISER" dealer and a number of other outlets. Did you bleed the brakes correctly?
b0b
2011-01-23 18:50:54 UTC
often, rear callipers are the type that have one piston and have to slide across a bit to bite; usually they jam on not off.



However, dismount calliper and spray with brake cleaner, maybe all it needs short term (but keep an eye on it and check pad wear whilst it's off). Check scored disc too, or if the disc has a pronounced 'lip' at the edge where it didn't get worn but now stops the pads biting. As you had to add fluid, the pads have obviously got thinner, hence the master cylinder went down a bit. That is normal but not all of a sudden - do you check frequently (of course you should) - weekly at least.



Back to swing callipers - do they slide together apart as on oiled silk, or do they not budge? If the latter, they have to come apart and the rods holding the inner to the outer may respond to de-rusting. If the rubber boots covering those parts are even slightly damaged or just a loose fit, that is the probable story.



Twin piston callipers (hydraulic push from both sides, nothing has to slide across) should be near infallible if the pads are OK. Any pad down to bare metal makes a fearful squeal - did that happen lately?



BTW, is the footbrake pedal really really firm now, or a bit squidgy - have you really got all the air out of it?

What colour was the fluid you bled, normally it's darker than when new but if it came out into the jar with crud, you may have a return hole blockage now. Drain whole system overnight, refill gently and re-start the bleed process with all fresh juice.



If you're in the slightest doubt about what you're doing, take it to a pro; it is a killer to have brake failure.
Tomcat
2011-01-23 20:48:49 UTC
Like stated if you had to add fluid and did not see a visible leak then i would think that the problem lies in the piston in the caliper--it has traveled to far and is passed the point of no return because of worn brake pads.You need to take the caliper off and CAREFULLY with a c-clamp push the piston back in all the way.Do not force it,it should retract back in with relative ease.Put some new pads on it and bleed them again,it will probably work.
2011-01-23 18:55:02 UTC
take off the caliper from the rotor but leave it assembled then press the brake pedal you should see the pistons pushing the brake pads if not try pushing the pistons in to free them using a c clamp or tool made for that,they may be stuck and need to be loosened then see if they move using the pedal,if you cant free them you will need to rebuild them
Laverdabru
2011-01-23 18:43:02 UTC
It would REALLY help if you could give some more info.

Like, what is the make of bike/caliper? How old is it? Do you use the bike all year round, or just in good weather?
bluff mike
2011-01-24 18:33:02 UTC
No, calipers are rebuilt, not replaced.
?
2011-01-23 18:23:25 UTC
schoorrry


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